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Babi Guling – Balinese Roast Pork with Crackling
Babi Guling is the festival dish of Bali, the Hindu-influenced island of Indonesia. There a whole suckling pig turns for hours on a spit over charcoal, stuffed with base genep, a paste of turmeric, galangal, chile and shallots. At home you use pork shoulder with the rind. The paste seasons the meat from the inside, and under the broiler the rind turns into a crackling crust. Serve it with rice, sambal matah and stir-fried vegetables.
Babi Guling – Balinese Roast Pork with Crackling
Laura Chen
6
4 hours 30 minutes
3 hours
700
Indonesian
Main course
Babi Guling is a whole suckling pig on a spit in Bali, stuffed with the spice paste base genep. For the oven, you use pork shoulder with the rind, rub it with the paste of turmeric, galangal and chile, and roast it slowly until the crust crackles. You serve it with rice and sambal matah.

Ingredients
For the meat:
- 1.5 kg boneless pork shoulder with rind
- 2 tsp coarse sea salt
- 1 tbsp coconut oil
For the base genep (Balinese spice paste):
- 8 shallots
- 6 garlic cloves
- 4 cm fresh turmeric or 2 tsp ground turmeric
- 4 cm galangal (sharp ginger relative)
- 3 cm ginger
- 3 red chiles
- 4 kemiri (candlenuts, rich nuts used as a thickener)
- 2 stalks lemongrass, pale part only
- 1 tsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 1 tsp terasi (shrimp paste)
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tbsp coconut oil
- 4 salam leaves (Indonesian bay leaves)
Instructions
- Toast the coriander and peppercorns in a dry pan for 1 minute and grind them finely in a mortar. Blend them with the shallots, garlic, turmeric, galangal, ginger, chiles, candlenuts, lemongrass, terasi, salt and 1 tbsp coconut oil into a paste.
- Fry the paste in a pan over medium heat for 5 minutes, until it darkens and smells fragrant. Let it cool.
- Score the rind with a sharp knife at 1 cm intervals without cutting into the meat. Cut deeply along the length of the meat side of the shoulder to form a pocket.
- Spread the paste into the pocket and over the meat side, put the salam leaves inside, and tie the shoulder into a roll with kitchen twine. Keep the rind clean.
- Rub the rind with sea salt and refrigerate the meat uncovered for at least 4 hours.
- Preheat the oven to 160 °C (320 °F), top and bottom heat. Pat the rind dry, brush it with coconut oil and roast the pork on a rack over a drip pan for 2 hours 30 minutes, until a thermometer in the center reads 85 °C (185 °F).
- Switch to the broiler setting at 240 °C (464 °F) and let the rind puff for 15 to 25 minutes, until golden brown and blistered. Stay by the oven so it does not burn.
- Let the roast rest for 15 minutes. Cut off the crackling, break it into pieces and slice the meat.
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